Archive for the ‘Home Appliances’ Category

Researches at Oak Ridge National Laboratory are working on an ultrasonic dryer that vibrates moisture out instead of evaporating it with heat. It makes the dryer more efficient and safer to operate.

Teaming with GE Appliances, the researchers are developing a dryer that uses ultrasound vibrations instead of heat, using five to ten times less energy than traditional dryers. The vibration turns the moisture in wet clothes into a cold mist and eliminates the risk of clothes shrinking in a hot dryer.
Electric dryers were first marketed in 1938 and became a must in American households in early 50s. According to the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), about 85% of US homes have dryers and spend $9 billion a year to operate them.
Tumble dryers that heat clothes in a rotating barrel use two to four times more energy than a new washer and twice as much as European style heat pump dryers and account almost 6% of residential energy consumption, NRDC said.
The current ultrasonic dryer prototype is very small and can only dry scraps of fabric, but the researchers are working on a full size dryer that will dry a load in significantly less time. Also it is going to produce much less lint thanks to the new technology.

Oak Ridge researches expect to create a full working prototype by the summer of 2016.

We would like to share a great article with you on cleaning your fridge. Just follow these easy steps and your fridge is going to be sparkling clean!
Minutes 1 to 2:
Unplug the refrigerator. Slide a coil brush underneath the unit’s kick plate (the rectangular panel just above the floor) to remove dust.

Minutes 3 to 7:
Empty the contents. Toss anything past its prime into a trash bag. Recycle glass and plastic containers.

Minutes 8 to 10:
Remove the drawers and place them in the sink. Scrub the drawers with a sponge, warm water, and liquid dish soap. Leave them out to air-dry.

Minutes 11 to 15:
Douse the interior with a multisurface spray. Wipe down the walls, then each shelf. (Don’t forget the shelf seams and the rubber door seal.) Use an old toothbrush and a spritz of cleaner to dislodge grime from crevices.

Minutes 16 to 17:
Plug in the refrigerator. Return the drawers. Put the food back in, wiping down jars and bottles.

Minute 18:
Attach the baking-soda pod’s suction cups to an interior wall.

Minutes 19 to 20:
Clean the exterior.
For enameled steel: Use a multisurface solution and paper towels.
For stainless steel: Dampen a microfiber cloth with distilled white vinegar and rub in the direction of the grain. All done!
thanks to real simple.com!

make it sparkle! This great article will guide through each step you and your stove will be shining in no time!
Spray Grates
Take off grates, griddles, and other removable parts. Should you have serious burned-on spills, place parts on a newspaper outside or in a well-ventilated area and spray with a commercial oven cleaner, following manufacturer’s instructions. Let sit a few hours or overnight.
Scrub Grates
Wash grates in hot water and dishwashing liquid. Use a scouring pad on noncoated grates; for coated ones, use a sponge. Dry thoroughly before replacing. Clean Fuel Ports
Clear any blockages with a pin or paper clip.
Remove Spills
Soak a cloth in hot water, and place over the spill for a few minutes. Remove buildup with a rubber scraper.
Wipe the Surface
Use a damp sponge to wipe the surface clean. Be sure the sponge is not sopping; excess water can damage the igniter. On a glass or ceramic cook top, use a damp cloth.
Clean Knobs
Remove knobs, and wash with warm water and dishwashing liquid. Do not soak in water or use a cleaner that contains ammonia or abrasives, since doing so may remove the graphics. Dry thoroughly before replacing.
Dry
Using a cotton or microfiber cloth, wipe the stove top dry. (If it’s stainless steel, wipe in the direction of the grain.)
Done!

We all have to fight them from time to time. I came across a really good article and would like to share it with you. stain and smell removal
I hope there is something in it for you!

We don’t blame you! Very few people like it. Check out this video, and the ironing will be forgotten!

Food, grease, drips and streaks can get in between the glass panes in a variety of ways. Sometimes it drips down through vents in the top of the door. Grease from the oven can travel through steam vapors into the door where they settle leaving spots and streaks. Removing anything from in between the glass pieces will be a challenge. Here are a few methods that have been successful.

Disassembling the door:

*Disassembling the door yourself will void the warranty and may require a service technician to repair any damage or put the door back together. It is recommended that a service technician complete this for you. It is not recommended that you disassemble the door yourself.

You will need:

• Glass cleaner
• Soft cloths
• Glass stovetop cleaner

Steps to Remove the Glass:

1 Make an appointment with a service technician to remove the glass from the door. Do not hesitate to call A plus Appliances at 415 513 8624 to help you out
2 Use glass cleaner to remove as much of the debris as possible.
3 For tougher stains and food debris, use a glass stovetop cleaner to aid with removal.
4 Once the stains and debris are removed, allow the service technician to reassemble the door.Cleaning Through the Door Vents

When the glass cannot be removed or is no longer covered by the warranty, there are other, more creative, ways that can be used to clean it.

Steps to Clean Between the Glass:
1 Some ovens have small vents along the bottom or top of the door. These vents go in between the glass (and are likely part of the problem with other materials getting in there as well). By inserting a towel on a long-handled stick, you can gently clean between the glass without disassembling the door.First, find the vents on the door if you have them.
2 It may be easier to remove the door from the hinges and lay it flat on the floor. Many oven doors simply lift right off of the hinges, others will require loosening a few screws first. Replacing the door should be easy to do at the end of the cleaning and will not void the warranty.
3 Start by choosing a long-handled cleaning tool. There are a variety of options available, so be creative.
4 Secure a towel or soft cloth (long socks work well) to the handle with duct tape or other strong tape. Make sure it’s well fastened so it doesn’t come off and become stuck in the door.
5 Moisten the towel or soft cloth with the window cleaner or other cleaning product.
6 Insert the cleaning tool through the vents.
7 Move the cloth back and forth to remove the debris from between the glass.
8 Remove the cloth.
9 Repeat with a clean cloth until all of the debris is gone.
10. Replace the door on the oven and enjoy the clear, clean view.

If you have noticed that your clean clothes smell like mildew even after you wash them, keep reading. May be your front loading washing machine need some attention.
The drums on washing machines, top and front loaders, spin around a centripetal force – the water spins outward from the center, exiting through the holes on the sides of the drum. Excuse the scientific lingo here but the centripetal force is more effective in draining the water when the drum is spinning around a Y-axis or horizontally, as in top loader and not around a X-axis or vertically, as in front loader. So, there’s always a chance that not all of the water gets drained from the machine if the drum is lying on its side, as in front loaders. The result is water pooling in the rubber gasket that seals the door, allowing odor causing bacteria, mold and mildew to grow. And add some lint, hair, dust, and whatever gets shaken out of the clothes to the mix and you have a sludge that resembles an industrial toxic waste, sitting there adding foul smell to the wash, toxic mildew and mold growing. Gross. Toxic. Unhealthy.
But don’t worry, you don’t have to throw your machine away. There are some very simple things you can do to bring it back to life.

HOW TO CLEAN AND MAINTAIN A SMELLY FRONT LOADING WASHING MACHINE

1. Wipe Down – Every time you finish your load, wipe down the water and soak up any remaining water inside the gasket. Peel back the rubber door seal, and clean in there. You’ll notice little grooves. Water sits here, and with collected dust and lint from the clothes, the gunk just accumulates into a sludge that stinks. Wrap your finger with a paper towel, stick in the grooves, and spin the washer slowly. You’ll notice there are draining holes. Clean the holes well.

2. Unload the finished load immediately. Do not let wet clothes sit in the machine for obvious reasons. If you can’t take them out in a timely manner, use the delay washing feature and time the finishing time when you can take them out right away.

3. Leave the door open when not in use to allow the water and moisture to evaporate and not stay inside stagnantly. Be careful with this if you have young children or pets; cats love to crawl inside crevices and this can be a perfect spot for catnaps. Actually, they recommend leaving the lids open for top loaders for same reasons too.

4. Run a HOT cleaning cycle with an empty washer at least once a week. The frequency depends on how many loads of washes you do but in general, once a week of a quick cleaning should be sufficient. Use 50/50 vinegar/water solution to wipe the gasket clean. Don’t forget to clean the inside rim of the glass door as well as the glass.

5. Once a month, add a cup of Distilled White Vinegar & 1 Cup of Baking Soda (adding both neutralizes the pH but the bubbling action gently scrubs any debris you can’t get to inside the drum) directly into the drum and use HOT water for washing. Then, add about ½ cup of vinegar into the fabric softener compartment and ½ cup of baking soda into the detergent compartment. If you have a “Cleaning Cycle”, use it or set the wash on “Quick Wash” with HOT water and High Spin Cycle.

6. Bleach – If the mold situation is really bad, you may need to use bleach instead of vinegar and baking soda. But make sure you run a few empty cycles just with hot water before doing a load of wash. Otherwise, you may end up with tie dyed shirts.

7. Use eco-friendly High Efficiency (HE) detergents. If the detergent is concentrated, use half as much. HE detergents produce less suds and has less fragrance than regular detergents. The volume of suds produced by regular detergents acts like sludge to water draining out of the tub. Also, their fragrances mix with the mildew-y water produce even worse smell. That goes for the fragrant fabric softeners. The chemicals in the slimy thick fabric softeners, even the eco-friendly ones, are guilty of contributing to the foul smelling sludge. Use eco-friendly dryer sheets or dryer sachets instead.

8. Clean the detergent compartment drawer. You can easily take the drawer out – read the machine’s manual – and clean the soap, bleach, and fabric softener compartments. Soak it in warm water with dishwashing liquid or vinegar/baking soda mix. Use an old tooth brush if you have to.

9. Finally, clean the drain pump filter. This should be done about every two weeks. If the drain pump filter gets clogged with debris, the water flow will slow down, and fill up with stinky water over time. Old water that didn’t drain sits here, as does lint and other odd items. The drain pump filter is usually located at the front bottom of the washer. Refer to your washer manual as different machines have different instructions but the bottom line is that it needs to be cleaned out so that water doesn’t sit in the pump.

yes, it might sound like too much work, but if you take care of your appliances, they perform better and last longer.

Our customers often ask us what can be done to use their appliances more efficiently. Here are some tips and hints to help you. Each week we are going to publish a new article , so stay tuned!

Using Front Load Washers
Front load washing machines provide superior wash results compared to top load machines. The clothes look newer longer, and you save money because they use less water, detergent and energy ( so you can buy more clothes)
Sorting and loading the clothes correctly will provide the best results when used with a detergent approved for “HE” High Efficiency washers.
Separate clothes that shed lint (chenille and terrycloth) from clothes that attract lint (synthetics, corduroy, velveteen).
Pilling, which can look like lint, is produced by normal wear on cotton/polyester blend fabrics. To reduce pilling, wash these fabrics inside out, using the delicate wash cycle.
To prevent “yellowing” of whites, use the hottest recommended temperature for each type of load.
Retain the dark or bright colors by washing in cool or cold water.
Read the labels on the clothing for recommended wash cycles, a simple but often overlooked tip.
Use Color Catcher to prevent clothes staining each other.

Clothes dryers are pretty straightforward devises. They have a few basic mechanical parts, a heating element, and a set of electrical devices that control the various cycles and safety functions. Gas dryers are a little different from electric models, using a somewhat more complicated gas-fired heating system instead of an element, but otherwise, many parts are common to both types of the appliances. Several common dryer problems are easy to diagnose and fix yourself. Others require electrical tests and/or professional servicing to replace worn or failed parts.
Nothing’s Happening
If your dryer seems to be not working at all, first make sure it’s getting power. There’s almost no reason why a dryer would be unplugged unexpectedly, but check the cord and plug anyway. If everything looks fine, check the breaker in the home’s service panel (breaker box). A dryer breaker is a biggie: typically 30 amps and double-pole (two toggle levers joined with a cross bar). Reset the breaker if it has tripped. If it hasn’t, there’s a very remote chance that the wall outlet is bad or there’s a trouble with the circuit wiring, but more likely it’s a problem with one of the following devices inside the dryer: door switch, safety fuse, start switch, motor timer, or thermostats. Failure with any of these parts can prevent the dryer from turning on. It’s also possible that the dryer has a broken belt, causing the belt switch to cut the power. 
Takes Forever to Dry Clothes
This is a very common complaint, and very often it happens because of a poor airflow. A dryer’s blower fan has to pass the air through the clothes pile in the drum, past the lint screen and all the way along the vent duct to the outdoors. Any blockage along the way can affect the drying performance. The lint screen should be cleaned after each load.
To check if the vent is blocked, turn on the dryer, then hold your hand over the vent cap at the outside wall. You should feel a strong breeze of warm air. If not, you probably have some blockage in the vent duct, and you should have it cleaned by a pro (before you call, however, check behind the dryer to make sure the vent hose or duct aren’t squashed up against the wall).
Other causes of slow drying could be the gas valves or coils, or the flame sensor on a gas dryer, or the thermostats on either type.
Other Problems
Got spin but no heat? It could be the heating element, timer motor, thermostats, safety switch/fuse, or centrifugal switch on an electric; on a gas unit, it could be any of those (except the element) or the gas jet or valve coils, flame sensor, or ignitor. How about heat but no spin? Could be a broken drum belt or a problem with the belt tensioner (or idler pulley) or the motor, which runs the belt. Finally, if the dryer works fine but makes noise, it might simply be out of level (adjust the feet or shim underneath to level the unit). A squeaky dryer may be due to worn drum bearings or a failing idler pulley (the small wheel on the tensioner assembly).
Final Note
Just a final note on the importance of good venting: Efficient airflow not only makes your dryer work faster, it helps it last longer. The best duct for a dryer vent is smooth, rigid metal duct, with as few turns as possible. Flexible vinyl hose is the worst for airflow and safety. If you need a flexible section, use flexible metal, and make sure it’s not pinched or kinked anywhere in the run.